Classic Ascents
Mönch, Jungfrau and Eiger
These three mountains are spectacularly set in the heart of the Bernese Alps, together they form the spectacular chain known as the Berner Trilogy.
The Mönch
(4107m) is the most climbed of the three peaks and has a variety of good routes. The Southeast Ridge is considered the normal route and is a great introduction to climbing in the area. This route, while never severe, includes some very exposed ridge climbing both on snow and on the fine rock.
The Jungfrau
(4158 m) is the westernmost and highest of the famous trilogy. This climb has a bit of everything, a glacier approach, followed by rock climbing, then a snow ridge to a pass, and more and steeper snow, ice and rock to the airy summit.
The Eiger
(3970m), the most technically difficult of the three, famed for its fearsome North Face. Luckily for the rest of us it has two more moderate yet fine Alpine routes The South Ridge and the Mittellegi Ridge. Both are very excellent climbs, mostly on rock, but with sections of snow and glacier as well.
Exposure and technically challenging rock climbing are the main difficulties on these routes. The descent is also a challenge often taking longer than the asent. With either route expect a 12 hour day.
The guide to client ratio for the Monch and the Jungfrau is 1:2, it is 1:1 for the Eiger
The Monch and the Jungfrau can be climbed as a 5 day trip including 2 acclimatisation days.
All three can be climbed together in a week by very experienced parties.
Sample Itinerary of Monch and Jungfrau
Day 1: Meet your guide in the evening to discuss the week’s itinerary.
Day 2: Meet in the morning and make your way up to local hut and do some rock climbing nearby
Day 3: Climb a peak and return to valley.
Day 4: Get Jungfraubahn train to the Sphinx Station at the Jungfraujoch. Short 45 min walk from here to the Mönchsjochhutte, check in and head out for more training.
Day 5: Climb the Monch and return to Mönchsjochhutte for a second night.
Day 6: Climb the Jungfrau and return to the valley
Day 7: Fly home
