Classic Ascents

Matterhorn

The Matterhorn (4478m) (German), Cervino (Italian), or Mont Cervin (French) is arguably the most familiar mountain in the Alps. On the border between Switzerland and Italy, it towers over the Swiss village of Zermatt and the Italian village Breuil-Cervinia in the Val Tournanche.

We generally climb the Matterhorn via the Hornli Ridge. The climbing is of average technical difficulty but this route is so long, exposed and at hight altitude, it requires considerable efficiency, technique and endurance not to mention commitment. The Hornli Ridge is a world classic, one of the most popular routes in the Alps, a physically demanding and beautiful ascent.

We run this trip on request. The guide client ratio for training and acclimatisation days is 1:2 and for summit days is 1:1

Outline Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Saas Grund, a quiet valley east of the Matterhorn where you will do your training and acclimatisation.

Day 2: Walk up to the Almageller Hutte (2894m) and do some rock climbing at the foot of the Dri Hornli. Overnight in the Hut.

Day 3: Climb the Dri Hornli Ridge. A spectacular traverse on perfect rock. Overnight in the Hut..

Day 4: Climb the Weissmeiss (4023m) and return to Saas Grund.

Day 5: Travel to Zermatt and walk up to the Hornli Hut (3260m) where you spend the night.

Day 6: Summit the Matterhorn.

Day 7: Extra day to allow for potential rest day, a night at the Hornli hut on the way down from the summit, bad weather and general itinerary flexibility.

Day 8: Last morning in Zermatt before departure.

Please note that this itinerary is an example, itineraries are variable and subject to change due to conditions, the weather and group.